"I'll Be Sure to Put My Camera Away for this One"

Perugia: The capitol city of Umbria and famous for its Chocolate!
Mercoledi, Aprile 7-6 miles















Some of the immense underground of Perugia. This was the original medieval town until it was taken over by the "naughty Pope" (as Maura our tour guide explained). This area now serves as a transition and a museum as it links visitors through a series of escalators to what is Perugia today.














A park outside the palace. We found that Perugia has many green spaces and parks like this one. I found these parks one of the best features of Perugia and for this reason it is one of my favorite places we have visited. All the parks offered plentiful shade and seating.





















an old man and his dog looking over to the valley




















an old lady washing her hands in one of the fountains in the park



























a cafe that has views of the valley




















Along the corso we found this dog patiently waiting his owner as he stopped for a pastry and cafe. Here we found out our tour guide Maura worked as a translator for National Geographic guiding one of its journalists through Italy.




















a shaggy, solemn looking dog watching passers-by on the corso














a civic building flanking the main piazza that terminates on the corso; it served as a town hall and was used for various town and government meetings, weddings, and events




















A grand switchback stairway along the Via Prome. It was located on a city edge and had vast views of the valley.














the class admiring the views and aqueduct below




















A view of the aqueduct with stairs that run along in the street beside it. This aqueduct is no longer used to transport water but has been adapted to a pedestrian bridge.














some of the spring blossoms














another park space, Piazza Italia




















Nearing the end of the day we rode the Mini-Metro to our bus stop. Here is a nice lighting effect at one of the stops.














The Mini-Metro was some of the most fun we had of the day. I found every one of us had smiles on our faces illustrating our fascination and excitement for something so new.














We (unfortunately) got off at one of the stops so we could see some more "famous architecture" by yet another "famous architect" (Aldo Rossi). This fits into the post-modernist category. I find it (criticizing both the architecture and outdoor space) to be too massive, over-scaled to humans, and just uncomfortable (unfortunate as this is a residential area...). It has a large piazza and as you can see on this gorgeously sunny day in the 70's there is no one there. A day when other piazzas and parks in Perugia were filled with people enjoying the warm day, yet no one desires to use this one. That to me is a testament to its failure.

The title of this post is a comment Heidi made as we climbed the stairs to this atrociousness.














The fountain that sits in the center of the piazza. It is the only part of this space that I find somewhat interesting (perhaps because it is the only element actually IN the space...). I do however, think it would be more fitting were it placed in an office park rather than a residential location.














Quickly the pigeons diverted my attention and I found them to be, quite frankly, more interesting than anything surrounding me.




















Here Laura and I sigh as we experience the massive (lack of) design for this outdoor...space?.... This...space?....consists of a continuous brick paving pattern that is too small and monotonous for the courtyard.














Here is one of Perugia's famous Bacio or 'kiss' chocolates. Hershey's has nothing on Perugina chocolate! Each chocolate came with a fortune/proverb in it. My first one was something along the lines of polygamists having too many wives but monogamy also having one too many wives....well, I couldn't just end my trip on that soooo.....naturally I had to get another one. My second chocolate said 'Given the right chance, a woman can do anything'. Awesome! I'll end here.

"If You're Trying to Pull Off Being Catholic, It's Probably Best If You Don't Smirk When You Take Communion"

Easter Weekend in Castiglion Fiorentino: Buona Pasqua!
Venerdi, Aprile 2-5 miles
Domenica, Aprile 4-1 mile

While many of the students from Santa Chiara decided to leave for a four day weekend, I decided to stay in town and experience the Easter Festivities that go on throughout the week. Castiglion Fiorentino has continued their Easter and Holy Week traditions since the 13th century. The weeks activities included three processions; one scheduled for Tuesday, Wednesday, and Good Friday with the Passion Play enacted against a cliff backdrop on Thursday. Thunderstorms and rain canceled Tuesday's procession and Thursdays play.

The procession on Friday began at Piazza Della Collegiata right outside our home of Santa Chiara and were scheduled to begin at 9 pm, but as Paolo Barucchieri (the man who started the Santa Chiara study center over 20 years ago) explains: "

"Of course it will be later, you know, we are in Italy..." (the procession started around 9:35)














A look inside Chiesa del Gesu














The ceiling was beautifully decorated in gold and blue




















crosses waiting to be carried


The processions include three brotherhoods (more existed in the past that have since been abolished). The brotherhoods are not a religious order were founded to serve the church and a social purpose. Each brotherhood leads one of the 3 processions. The brotherhoods carry 3 crosses each and members carry wax torches along the procession through the town.

















The Campania di Mezziricorde wears black robes and is affiliated with the Chiesa di San Francesco. They were originally formed in Florence during the Plague and served to assist the sick and prepare them for dying.















The Campania di Gesu wears blue robes and is affiliated with Chiesa del Gesu.














Many in each brotherhood proceeded through the procession barefoot. The weight of this gesture coupled with the torches and the large heavy crosses was extremely moving.














The Campania di Sant'Anthony is affiliated with the Chiesa di San Francesco and wears white robes. This brotherhood has no ties to the KKK despite their resemblance to the sect.








































At the end of the procession it is part of the tradition for community members to follow at the end as the brotherhoods pass. Lydia, Laura, Jen, and I followed as well as the procession made its return along Via San Giuliano back to the Piazza Della Collegiata.















flower centerpieces at our table for Easter dinner














Lydia came down from Orvieto for the weekend and shared in the experience. Here Lydia, Me and Heidi are at Easter dinner.




















wine we had with dinner














Easter Feast! Ham, roast beef, salad, peas, and scalloped potatoes














Dessert platter!


We also went to a midnight mass at the Chiesa Della Collegiata. We arrived about 45 minutes early to be sure to get seats, although we didn't get seats in the main nave. Mass was very interesting (of course I could only follow some) as I am not Catholic, nor can I understand Italian. Right at midnight was the most exciting as men burst through the massive wooden double doors carrying a statue of Jesus. At the same time trumpets exalted and symbols crashed up in the balcony ringing throughout the church along with bursts of firecrackers lighting up the piazza outside! The joyous event brought a smile to everyone's face. Soon after members flooded the risen Jesus to kiss his feet in rejoice. (To fully partake in the experience Laura and I took communion during mass. The title of this post is what I whispered to Laura after she took communion!)

The whole celebration of Easter weekend was unforgettable to say the least. I felt a certain honor to have experienced a place so rich in tradition as both a member of the community and a foreigner. Much of the experience and emotions felt throughout can not be put into words but one could tell that we all shared in these moments.

"Uhhhh.....I Just Missed My Train"

Orvieto:
Mercoledi, Marzo 31-10.5 miles

This day we traveled to Orvieto, the home of KSU's other Italian Studies Program and we were all especially excited to see our friends. We are only about 1.5 hours away by train but this was the first time we've actually seen some of our friends since before we left for Italy. After riding the funiculare (I love that word! funiculare, funiculare, funiculare...pronounced foo-nik-you-lar-ay) up the steep 50% slope to the walled city we met up with our tour guide Maura and stopped first at the park that was once the Papal Fortress.















Part of the park with beautiful views of the surrounding valley














One of the first things that caught my eye. An interesting modern park and amphitheater. This is an example to how strong of a statement geometry can make, especially in a situation like this where it can be viewed from high up in the distance.














Here is a picture of Saint Joseph's well. It was designed to sustain the city in case of attack. The design was revolutionary with its double helix stairway, one for going down, one for coming up to prevent collisions of the donkeys who carried loads of water.














More of the park edge...notice the old man




















Here we met the old man. His name is Giovanni. He was in his 80's and as cheerful as could be. He kept telling Maura (our tour guide) how beautiful she was and how much he loved her. He also joked with Tony saying he was a lucky man that he had trouble hearing so he wouldn't hear his wife nagging Tony all the time. We found out he was a sculptor who did two of the original restorations in the Duomo. People like this and days like this are what makes Italy great.




















The Duomo of Orvieto







































Bronze door looking in














Inside the Duomo. The sunlight was fabulous today.







































Walking along the main corso we came upon this pleasant courtyard tucked off to the side. It served as an outdoor patio for a cafe and felt very comfortable in scale with the lone Magnolia tree offering shade.




















Lydia took us on the Rupe route that follows along the cliffs of the city














here is the Necropolis, an Etruscan burial ground














We came across an interesting driving situation, one that occurs all over Italy in its tight medieval towns. If you have ever wondered why Europeans drive small cars, here is your answer.




















A woodworking shop/store of a local artisan family.














Our Orvieto friends hosted us for 'snackies' for us early so we could make our 8:04 train. An assortment of bruschetta and cheeses and of course wine!














Laura, Becky, and I. Laura and I planned on taking the last train (8:04) back to Castiglion Fiorentino. We hung around as long as we could. After only an hour with friends (not nearly enough time) Laura and I said our 'goodbyes' and Lydia walked us to the funiculare by 7:45 (plenty of time, right?...). We waited for the funiculare to run and after what seemed like forever it finally made it down the hill. Laura and I run across the street, validate our tickets, check the departure board (it said binario 2) and run under the sottopassaggio (underpass)....Only to find out the board changes to binario 1. We see our train coming from the opposite direction and not wanting to cross 'the bloody tracks' we sprint back down under the sottopassaggio, up the escalator (because there were some very slow people on the stairs), out to the train, slam the button to open the door...doesn't open. Slam the second button as the train begins to pull away....

Well, I guess were staying the night in Orvieto...good thing we know people!

We check the schedule for the morning, buy our tickets for the train back, buy some more funiculare tickets and head back up to the city. We take a bus back to the Duomo and make our way back to Becky's apartment.














Me, Laura, and Lydia enjoying our extra time together.